Where: Xicheng District, Beijing
Words: The 798 / Scaling the Walls
En Route
On my way from Lama Temple back to Stacey's neighborhood in the West City (Xicheng), I stopped to admire this ridiculous not-quite-car:
I hope it didn't try to tackle downtown traffic with the big boys, but it probably did. Beijing drivers are fearless—and if you want to cross the street on foot, you have to be also.
The subway is pretty easy to navigate (only a few lines), but be careful what you bring along for the ride.
Two quick turns away from Jishuitan station and the throngs on Xinjiekou Street, and you'll find yourself on the banks of a quiet chain of lakes.
The lakes have a guardian who stands with his back to the city streets. Can't really blame him—the water is a much calmer companion.
Some of these fishermen were in business suits, just escaped from the office; some sunburned and wizened. It looked like the city had grown up around them.
The men anchored their lines to the lakeside pathway using chunks of brick. On a second look, they turned out to be pieces of the path itself, broken off over time and put to new use.
Cross the narrow paved road behind the lakes, and enter the maze of hutongs.
Xinjiekou Street
My huntong wander brought me back out on Xinjiekou a few blocks from Stacey's building. It's one of the most popular bargain shopping streets in the city, with little noodle shops and bakeries tucked between eager retailers (with bullhorns!) and crowded banks.
Strangely, the street also houses a small museum dedicated to Xu Beihong, celebrated for his calligraphic-style paintings of horses and other animals.
Bare essentials for the modern traveler: tea, rice, guidebook, MacBook.
Please excuse the shoddy self-portrait. I couldn't resist the urge to title it:
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